Buying Guides                                                   

Choosing the right PC case is just as important as selecting your components. Your case determines compatibility, cooling performance, airflow, fan support, and the overall style of your build. One of the biggest factors to consider is 

, which directly relates to the size of the motherboard it can support.

Below is a clear breakdown of the four most common PC case sizes and how to choose the best one for your setup.

PC case sizing is primarily based on motherboard compatibility. The four main sizes—

A larger case (like E-ATX) can fit smaller motherboards such as ITX, but a small ITX case cannot fit larger boards like ATX or E-ATX.

 and offer the most interior space for expansion, cooling, and advanced airflow setups.

E-ATX cases are ideal for users who want:

 option, offering a great mix of space, cooling potential, and ease of building.

They support all standard ATX motherboards—from entry-level H-series to top-tier Z-series boards.

, which features a durable structure and a magnetic front panel for easy access and maintenance. It’s a practical, budget-friendly choice for most gamers and DIY builders.

Micro-ATX (M-ATX) cases are slightly smaller while still offering plenty of features for mainstream users. M-ATX motherboards have fewer PCIe slots and M.2 slots, but still support most gaming and productivity builds.

 M-ATX case delivers impressive cooling despite its compact footprint—supporting a 

 at the top and multiple fan configurations.

M-ATX cases are ideal for users who want:

They are excellent for bedrooms, small desks, or office environments.

 option, designed strictly for ITX motherboards. They are popular among gamers and enthusiasts who prioritize portability or a minimalist desk setup.

Because of their small volume, ITX cases often have surprisingly efficient heat dissipation—but they do impose certain limitations:

 ITX case is a standout example with its stylish air-purifier-inspired design and bottom LED light strip. It combines aesthetics, portability, and smart airflow management.

When selecting a PC case, always consider:

Understanding the differences between E-ATX, ATX, M-ATX, and ITX cases will help you choose a chassis that fits your hardware, cooling requirements, and workspace—ensuring your build performs well and looks great.

Choosing the right PC case is just as important as selecting your components. Your case determines compatibility, cooling performance, airflow, fan support, and the overall style of your build. One of the biggest factors to consider is case size, which directly relates to the size of the motherboard it can support.

Below is a clear breakdown of the four most common PC case sizes and how to choose the best one for your setup.



Understanding PC Case Sizes

PC case sizing is primarily based on motherboard compatibility. The four main sizes—E-ATX, ATX, M-ATX, and ITX—range from largest to smallest.
A larger case (like E-ATX) can fit smaller motherboards such as ITX, but a small ITX case cannot fit larger boards like ATX or E-ATX.



E-ATX Cases

E-ATX cases are built for high-end, flagship systems and offer the most interior space for expansion, cooling, and advanced airflow setups.

A great example is the DLX4000, a premium E-ATX case that supports:





Up to 8 x 120mm fans



A 360mm AIO radiator at the top



Modular rear panels for flexible motherboard compatibility

E-ATX cases are ideal for users who want:





Maximum expansion room



Multi-fan or custom water-cooling setups



Superior airflow and thermal performance



A powerful workstation or full-tower gaming system



ATX Cases

ATX cases are the most common and most balanced option, offering a great mix of space, cooling potential, and ease of building.

They support all standard ATX motherboards—from entry-level H-series to top-tier Z-series boards.

A strong example is the DRX70, which features a durable structure and a magnetic front panel for easy access and maintenance. It’s a practical, budget-friendly choice for most gamers and DIY builders.

ATX cases are perfect if you want:





A well-rounded build with solid airflow



Multiple fan and storage options



A case size that fits comfortably on or under most desks



M-ATX Cases

Micro-ATX (M-ATX) cases are slightly smaller while still offering plenty of features for mainstream users. M-ATX motherboards have fewer PCIe slots and M.2 slots, but still support most gaming and productivity builds.

For example, the MOTI Mirror Island M-ATX case delivers impressive cooling despite its compact footprint—supporting a 360mm radiator at the top and multiple fan configurations.

M-ATX cases are ideal for users who want:





A smaller footprint without major compromises



Good airflow and cooling flexibility



A cleaner, more space-efficient setup

They are excellent for bedrooms, small desks, or office environments.



ITX Cases

ITX cases are the smallest and most compact option, designed strictly for ITX motherboards. They are popular among gamers and enthusiasts who prioritize portability or a minimalist desk setup.

Because of their small volume, ITX cases often have surprisingly efficient heat dissipation—but they do impose certain limitations:





Typically limited to SFX or SFX-L power supplies



Fewer fan and radiator mounting points



Tighter cable-management space

The DLH21 ITX case is a standout example with its stylish air-purifier-inspired design and bottom LED light strip. It combines aesthetics, portability, and smart airflow management.

ITX cases are best for users who want:





A compact or portable PC



A stylish small-form-factor build



Efficient airflow in a small chassis



Choosing the Right Case for Your Needs

When selecting a PC case, always consider:





Motherboard compatibility



Cooling and fan support



GPU and CPU cooler clearance



Expansion options (storage, PCIe cards)



Desk space and preferred size



Personal aesthetic preferences

Understanding the differences between E-ATX, ATX, M-ATX, and ITX cases will help you choose a chassis that fits your hardware, cooling requirements, and workspace—ensuring your build performs well and looks great.

How to Choose the Right PC Case for Your Build

When building or buying a PC, you’ll notice various ports on the case's I/O panel. While they might look similar at first glance, the difference between USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 is significant. Whether you are transferring huge video files or just connecting a mouse, knowing which port to use matters.

Here is the ultimate breakdown of how to tell them apart and why it affects your performance.

. It is best suited for low-bandwidth peripherals like mice, keyboards, and printers.

 than USB 2.0, making it essential for external hard drives and thumb drives where speed counts.

. This makes it easy to spot the high-speed ports instantly.

Note: USB 3.0 also features more internal pins (9 pins vs. 4 pins).

t operates on a "Half-Duplex" system. Data can only flow in one direction at a time (sending OR receiving).

It utilizes a "Full-Duplex" system with dual data paths. This allows it to send and receive data simultaneously, drastically improving efficiency.

The good news is that the Type-A connector (the standard rectangular shape) is physically compatible between generations.

While USB 2.0 is still perfectly fine for your mouse and keyboard, USB 3.0 is a must-have for data transfer. When choosing a computer case, always check the I/O panel to ensure you have enough blue USB 3.0 ports to handle your external storage needs.





When building or buying a PC, you’ll notice various ports on the case's I/O panel. While they might look similar at first glance, the difference between USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 is significant. Whether you are transferring huge video files or just connecting a mouse, knowing which port to use matters.

Here is the ultimate breakdown of how to tell them apart and why it affects your performance.



The Speed Difference

USB 2.0

Max speed of 480 Mbps (60 MB/s). It is best suited for low-bandwidth peripherals like mice, keyboards, and printers.



USB 3.0

Max speed of 5 Gbps (625 MB/s). This is roughly 10 times faster than USB 2.0, making it essential for external hard drives and thumb drives where speed counts.







Visual Identification (The Color Test)

USB 2.0

Typically Black or White.



USB 3.0

Standardized as Blue. This makes it easy to spot the high-speed ports instantly.

Note: USB 3.0 also features more internal pins (9 pins vs. 4 pins).







How Data Travels (Duplex Capabilities)

USB 2.0 (One-Way Traffic)

It operates on a "Half-Duplex" system. Data can only flow in one direction at a time (sending OR receiving).



USB 3.0 (Two-Way Traffic)

It utilizes a "Full-Duplex" system with dual data paths. This allows it to send and receive data simultaneously, drastically improving efficiency.







Compatibility

The good news is that the Type-A connector (the standard rectangular shape) is physically compatible between generations.





You can plug a USB 3.0 drive into a USB 2.0 port (and vice versa).



However, the speed will always default to the slowest standard involved. Plugging a fast drive into a slow port means you are stuck at USB 2.0 speeds.







Conclusion 

While USB 2.0 is still perfectly fine for your mouse and keyboard, USB 3.0 is a must-have for data transfer. When choosing a computer case, always check the I/O panel to ensure you have enough blue USB 3.0 ports to handle your external storage needs.

They might look similar on your PC case, but plugging into the wrong USB port can cost you 10x the speed.

USB 2.0 vs. USB 3.0: Understanding Your PC Case Ports

 might look complicated—but each part of the code actually tells you important information about the processor’s performance, generation, and special features. Understanding these naming rules helps you pick the right CPU for your needs.

Below is a simple breakdown of how to read both Intel and AMD CPU model numbers.

The series indicates the CPU’s performance tier. Higher numbers generally mean stronger performance.

The first digits after the series represent the generation.

i9-14900K → “14” = 14th Gen Core i9

Newer generations usually mean improvements in architecture, efficiency, and performance.

The numbers following the generation indicate performance variations within the same generation.

a higher SKU number means higher performance

The suffix tells you the CPU’s key features:

AMD follows a similar structure but uses different naming patterns.

The first number after the series indicates the generation.

Ryzen 7 7900X → “7” = 7th-gen Ryzen 7

Newer generations improve efficiency, IPC, and performance within the same tier.

The following numbers identify different performance levels within the same generation.

Higher numbers typically mean faster boost clocks and better overall performance.

Once you understand what each part of a CPU model number represents, choosing the right Intel or AMD processor becomes much easier. Whether you’re upgrading for gaming, productivity, or content creation, reading CPU codes helps you pick the model that best fits your performance needs.





When choosing a CPU, model names like Intel Core i9-14900K or AMD Ryzen 9 7900X might look complicated—but each part of the code actually tells you important information about the processor’s performance, generation, and special features. Understanding these naming rules helps you pick the right CPU for your needs.

Below is a simple breakdown of how to read both Intel and AMD CPU model numbers.



How to Read Intel CPU Model Numbers

Let’s use Intel Core i9-14900K as an example.
It can be divided into four parts: series, generation, SKU number, and suffix.







Series (i3 / i5 / i7 / i9)

The series indicates the CPU’s performance tier. Higher numbers generally mean stronger performance.





Core i3 — Entry level. Best for documents, browsing, video playback.



Core i5 — Mid-range. Good for office tasks and light gaming.



Core i7 — High performance. Suitable for AAA gaming, multitasking, and livestreaming.



Core i9 — Flagship. Designed for heavy gaming, high FPS, content creation, and streaming simultaneously.



Generation

The first digits after the series represent the generation.
Example: i9-14900K → “14” = 14th Gen Core i9.

Newer generations usually mean improvements in architecture, efficiency, and performance.



SKU Number (the remaining digits)

The numbers following the generation indicate performance variations within the same generation.
They differentiate CPUs by clock speed, core count, cache size, and other specifications.

In general, a higher SKU number means higher performance.



Suffix (K, F, etc.)

The suffix tells you the CPU’s key features:





No suffix — Standard model. Balanced performance, no special features.



K — Unlocked for overclocking. Ideal for gamers and streamers who want extra performance.



F — No integrated graphics. Requires a dedicated graphics card.



How to Read AMD CPU Model Numbers

AMD follows a similar structure but uses different naming patterns.
Take Ryzen 7 7900X as an example.







Series (Ryzen 3 / 5 / 7 / 9)





Ryzen 3 — Entry-level. Good for office tasks, browsing, and light games.



Ryzen 5 — Mainstream. Good for gamers and general creators.



Ryzen 7 — High-end. Great for AAA gaming and content creation.



Ryzen 9 — Flagship. Excellent for heavy workloads, streaming, and top-tier gaming.



Generation

The first number after the series indicates the generation.
Example: Ryzen 7 7900X → “7” = 7th-gen Ryzen 7.

Newer generations improve efficiency, IPC, and performance within the same tier.



SKU Number

The following numbers identify different performance levels within the same generation.
Higher numbers typically mean faster boost clocks and better overall performance.



Suffix (X, X3D, F)





F — No integrated graphics. Requires a dedicated GPU.



X — Higher base and boost clocks for stronger performance.



X3D — Same as X-series but with AMD 3D V-Cache, offering significantly better gaming performance.







Final Thoughts

Once you understand what each part of a CPU model number represents, choosing the right Intel or AMD processor becomes much easier. Whether you’re upgrading for gaming, productivity, or content creation, reading CPU codes helps you pick the model that best fits your performance needs.

Intel and AMD CPU codes look complex, but they’re easy to understand once you know what each part represents.

What Do the Codes After Intel and AMD CPU Model Numbers Actually Mean?

, is the high-speed interface standard found on modern motherboards. It acts as a direct connection between your system and key components such as graphics cards, SSDs, capture cards, and network cards—ensuring fast, stable data transfer for demanding tasks.

, giving each device its own dedicated data path. This architecture allows PCIe to deliver much faster transfer speeds compared to older shared-bus standards.

PCIe also evolves in generations (PCIe 3.0, 4.0, 5.0), with each new version offering 

 the slot includes, similar to how a multi-lane highway allows more traffic.

A larger lane count means higher bandwidth and better performance for high-demand devices.

PCIe slots and devices are backward compatible.

For example, a PCIe 4.0 card will work in a PCIe 3.0 slot—but it will operate at 

Common PCIe Device Types and Recommended Slots

 GPUs require maximum bandwidth for rendering and computation. The x16 slot provides the ideal throughput for top performance.

 Most NVMe SSDs run through M.2 slots using PCIe x4 lanes. If your motherboard lacks enough M.2 slots, an expansion card in a PCIe x4 slot can be used without bottlenecking the SSD.

 Standard network cards require minimal bandwidth, making x1 slots sufficient. For multi-gigabit or enterprise-grade NICs, an x4 slot offers better stability.

 Capture cards handle high-bandwidth video streams, especially for streaming or content creation. Wider lanes ensure smooth recording and low latency.

Important Things to Consider When Using PCIe

If you install a high-bandwidth device (like a GPU) into a low-lane slot, performance will be limited. Always pair demanding hardware with the correct slot size.

PCIe cards must physically fit into the slot.

This slot often provides the best bandwidth and lowest latency. Installing high-priority devices in the correct slot ensures maximum performance.

PCIe slots play a crucial role in expanding the capabilities of your PC. Understanding the different PCIe sizes, lane counts, and recommended use cases helps you optimize system performance and choose the right slot for each component. Whether you’re adding a new GPU, installing more storage, or upgrading your network hardware, selecting the proper PCIe slot ensures your system runs at its full potential.




PCIe, short for PCI Express, is the high-speed interface standard found on modern motherboards. It acts as a direct connection between your system and key components such as graphics cards, SSDs, capture cards, and network cards—ensuring fast, stable data transfer for demanding tasks.



Key Features of PCIe

High-Speed, Direct Data Transfer

PCIe uses a point-to-point serial connection, giving each device its own dedicated data path. This architecture allows PCIe to deliver much faster transfer speeds compared to older shared-bus standards.

PCIe also evolves in generations (PCIe 3.0, 4.0, 5.0), with each new version offering significantly higher bandwidth than the one before it.



Multiple Slot Sizes and Lane Counts

PCIe slots come in several sizes—x1, x4, x8, and x16.
The number represents how many data lanes the slot includes, similar to how a multi-lane highway allows more traffic.





x1 = 1 lane



x16 = 16 lanes (highest bandwidth)

A larger lane count means higher bandwidth and better performance for high-demand devices.



Backward Compatibility

PCIe slots and devices are backward compatible.
For example, a PCIe 4.0 card will work in a PCIe 3.0 slot—but it will operate at PCIe 3.0 speeds.







Common PCIe Device Types and Recommended Slots

Graphics Card (GPU)

Recommended Slot: PCIe x16
Why: GPUs require maximum bandwidth for rendering and computation. The x16 slot provides the ideal throughput for top performance.



Solid-State Drive (SSD)

Recommended Slot: PCIe x4 (via M.2 or PCIe adapter)
Why: Most NVMe SSDs run through M.2 slots using PCIe x4 lanes. If your motherboard lacks enough M.2 slots, an expansion card in a PCIe x4 slot can be used without bottlenecking the SSD.



Network Card (NIC)

Recommended Slot: PCIe x1 or x4
Why: Standard network cards require minimal bandwidth, making x1 slots sufficient. For multi-gigabit or enterprise-grade NICs, an x4 slot offers better stability.



Capture Card

Recommended Slot: PCIe x4 or x8
Why: Capture cards handle high-bandwidth video streams, especially for streaming or content creation. Wider lanes ensure smooth recording and low latency.







Important Things to Consider When Using PCIe

Match the Bandwidth to the Device

If you install a high-bandwidth device (like a GPU) into a low-lane slot, performance will be limited. Always pair demanding hardware with the correct slot size.



Check Physical Fit

PCIe cards must physically fit into the slot.





Small cards (x1) can fit into larger slots (x4/x8/x16)



Large cards (x16) cannot fit into smaller slots



Slot Priority on Motherboards

Most motherboards reserve the top PCIe x16 slot, closest to the CPU, for the GPU.
This slot often provides the best bandwidth and lowest latency. Installing high-priority devices in the correct slot ensures maximum performance.







Conclusion

PCIe slots play a crucial role in expanding the capabilities of your PC. Understanding the different PCIe sizes, lane counts, and recommended use cases helps you optimize system performance and choose the right slot for each component. Whether you’re adding a new GPU, installing more storage, or upgrading your network hardware, selecting the proper PCIe slot ensures your system runs at its full potential.

What Is PCIe on a Motherboard?

RGB lighting is now a core element of gaming setups, appearing in fans, keyboards, and nearly every modern PC component. But while 

 are often mentioned together, they’re not the same. Here’s a clear, updated guide to help you understand the difference.

RGB (Red, Green, Blue) combines three primary colors to produce different lighting effects. Traditional RGB systems can only display 

 at a time, meaning all LEDs light up in the same color simultaneously.

. This enables more dynamic effects such as gradients, moving waves, or rainbow animations. ARGB offers far greater flexibility and visual impact compared to standard RGB.

. Because 12V RGB headers are not interchangeable with ARGB headers, incorrect installation can cause damage—so it’s important to follow your motherboard’s instructions.

, designed with a built-in alignment guide to prevent improper installation. This makes ARGB generally safer and easier to connect.

The key difference between RGB and ARGB is the level of control you have over your LEDs. RGB delivers straightforward lighting with minimal setup, while ARGB opens the door to richer, more customizable effects. Understanding the difference will help you pick the right lighting system for your build—whether you prefer simplicity or a fully personalized glow.





RGB lighting is now a core element of gaming setups, appearing in fans, keyboards, and nearly every modern PC component. But while RGB and ARGB are often mentioned together, they’re not the same. Here’s a clear, updated guide to help you understand the difference.



Understanding RGB and ARGB

What Is RGB?

RGB (Red, Green, Blue) combines three primary colors to produce different lighting effects. Traditional RGB systems can only display one uniform color at a time, meaning all LEDs light up in the same color simultaneously.



What Is ARGB?

ARGB stands for Addressable RGB, which allows each LED to be individually controlled. This enables more dynamic effects such as gradients, moving waves, or rainbow animations. ARGB offers far greater flexibility and visual impact compared to standard RGB.







How They Connect: RGB vs. ARGB Headers

RGB Connections (12V 4-Pin)

RGB devices typically use a 4-pin 12V connector. Because 12V RGB headers are not interchangeable with ARGB headers, incorrect installation can cause damage—so it’s important to follow your motherboard’s instructions.



ARGB Connections (5V 3-Pin)

ARGB uses a 3-pin 5V connector, designed with a built-in alignment guide to prevent improper installation. This makes ARGB generally safer and easier to connect.







Lighting Effects Compared

RGB Lighting





Basic lighting modes



No individual LED control



All LEDs show the same color or pattern



Great for simple, unified lighting setups

ARGB Lighting





Individual LED control



Supports advanced animations and multi-zone effects



Ideal for users who want detailed customization



The current standard for gaming peripherals and fans







Which Should You Choose? RGB or ARGB?

Choose RGB If You Want:





A more budget-friendly option



Simple, plug-and-play lighting



A consistent single-color look without complex effects

Choose ARGB If You Want:





Maximum customization and full LED control



Dynamic, animated lighting effects



A more premium and visually engaging setup







Conclusion

The key difference between RGB and ARGB is the level of control you have over your LEDs. RGB delivers straightforward lighting with minimal setup, while ARGB opens the door to richer, more customizable effects. Understanding the difference will help you pick the right lighting system for your build—whether you prefer simplicity or a fully personalized glow.

They look alike, but RGB and ARGB deliver very different lighting effects.

RGB vs. ARGB Lighting: What’s the Real Difference?

When shopping for PC fans, you’ll often come across connectors that are either 

. If you don’t fully understand the difference, you might end up with a fan that your motherboard can’t properly control, or find yourself confused about where to plug it in during installation.

This guide will quickly walk you through the differences between 3-pin and 4-pin connectors, explain their functions, and help you decide which type of fan is the better choice for your build.

How to Tell the Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

It’s actually very simple to distinguish between them. Here are two easy methods:

Look at the fan’s packaging or user manual:

The Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

These are entry-level fans. The motherboard adjusts the fan speed by changing the voltage, but the level of control is quite limited.

These include an extra control wire that delivers precise PWM signals. This allows the fan to automatically adjust its speed based on system temperature. PWM fans generally provide faster response, smoother control, and quieter operation.

if you’re a performance-focused gamer or power user who values cooling efficiency, quiet operation, and fast thermal response. With PWM functionality, these fans automatically adjust speed for the perfect balance of performance and noise.

if you’re more budget-conscious and your system doesn’t generate heavy heat loads. For basic case airflow, 3-pin fans are a cost-effective and perfectly adequate choice.

When shopping for PC fans, you’ll often come across connectors that are either 3-pin or 4-pin. If you don’t fully understand the difference, you might end up with a fan that your motherboard can’t properly control, or find yourself confused about where to plug it in during installation.



This guide will quickly walk you through the differences between 3-pin and 4-pin connectors, explain their functions, and help you decide which type of fan is the better choice for your build.



How to Tell the Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

It’s actually very simple to distinguish between them. Here are two easy methods:



Method 1 | Metal Pins





3-pin fans: three metal pins for ground, power, and RPM feedback.



4-pin fans: include an extra pin for PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) control.



Method 2 | Check the Product Specs

Look at the fan’s packaging or user manual:





If you see PWM mentioned → it’s a 4-pin fan.



If it only says DC Fan or doesn’t mention PWM → it’s a 3-pin fan.



The Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans

3-Pin Fans

These are entry-level fans. The motherboard adjusts the fan speed by changing the voltage, but the level of control is quite limited.



4-Pin Fans (PWM Fans)

These include an extra control wire that delivers precise PWM signals. This allows the fan to automatically adjust its speed based on system temperature. PWM fans generally provide faster response, smoother control, and quieter operation.







Should I Choose a 3-Pin or 4-Pin Fan?

Choose 4-Pin Fans

if you’re a performance-focused gamer or power user who values cooling efficiency, quiet operation, and fast thermal response. With PWM functionality, these fans automatically adjust speed for the perfect balance of performance and noise.



Choose 3-Pin Fans

if you’re more budget-conscious and your system doesn’t generate heavy heat loads. For basic case airflow, 3-pin fans are a cost-effective and perfectly adequate choice.





Quickly Spot the Difference Between 3-Pin and 4-Pin Fans — Master Fan Control and Avoid Buying Mistakes!

PC Fan: 3-Pin or 4-Pin? Here’s What You Need to Know

In recent years, dual-glass PC cases have gained a lot of popularity. Often nicknamed “ocean view” cases, their name comes from both their design and user experience. With glass panels on two sides, airflow is more restricted compared to traditional cases, meaning additional fans are usually required for proper cooling. The gentle hum of these fans is said to resemble the sound of ocean breezes—hence the term ocean view.

Although both dual- and triple-glass cases may be called “ocean view,” there is a clear distinction between ocean view cases and fish tank cases. Here’s how you can tell them apart:

 cases focus on aesthetics and provide unique ways to display internal components. The decision isn’t about which one is “better,” but rather which design matches your preferences and setup goals.





In recent years, dual-glass PC cases have gained a lot of popularity. Often nicknamed “ocean view” cases, their name comes from both their design and user experience. With glass panels on two sides, airflow is more restricted compared to traditional cases, meaning additional fans are usually required for proper cooling. The gentle hum of these fans is said to resemble the sound of ocean breezes—hence the term ocean view.



Although both dual- and triple-glass cases may be called “ocean view,” there is a clear distinction between ocean view cases and fish tank cases. Here’s how you can tell them apart:



1. Base Design

Ocean View Cases:





The power supply is moved behind the motherboard tray.



The bottom section is dedicated to extra fans, maximizing interior space.

Fish Tank Cases:





The power supply remains in the traditional bottom-mounted position.



This results in a more compact layout compared to ocean view designs.



2. I/O Panel Placement

Ocean View Cases:





For a cleaner look, I/O ports are usually placed on the top panel or tucked away behind the front panel.

Fish Tank Cases:





Because of the power supply compartment, the I/O panel is typically located at the bottom of the front panel for easier access.







Advantages of Ocean View Cases

Visual Appeal





Ideal for showing off hardware and RGB lighting.



Especially popular among gamers and users who want a striking, modern setup.

Easy Maintenance





Dual-glass panels make it simple to check fan performance, lighting, and dust buildup.



Issues can be spotted and addressed quickly.

DIY & Showcase Potential





A great platform for modders and DIY enthusiasts.



Supports creative builds, custom water cooling, and unique component layouts to highlight both style and technical skills.



Both ocean view and fish tank cases focus on aesthetics and provide unique ways to display internal components. The decision isn’t about which one is “better,” but rather which design matches your preferences and setup goals.





How to Distinguish Between Ocean View and Fish Tank Case Designs

PC Case Showdown: Ocean View or Fish Tank?

One of the most common mistakes beginners make is picking a motherboard first—only to realize later that it doesn’t support their CPU. Always remember: 

Choose your CPU first, then the motherboard.

 Intel and AMD use different sockets, and that’s the first big decision every DIY builder needs to make.

To make things easier, we’ve broken motherboards into 

 categories, with recommended CPUs and models for each.

Perfect for web browsing, office tasks, and light use at the lowest cost.

The sweet spot for most gamers and DIY builders—great balance of performance and value.

Top-tier performance with room for future upgrades—built for those who want it all.

When choosing your motherboard, keep three things in mind:

Follow these steps and you’ll find the right motherboard for your build—and set the foundation for your dream PC. 





Building your own PC starts with choosing the right motherboard.






One of the most common mistakes beginners make is picking a motherboard first—only to realize later that it doesn’t support their CPU. Always remember: Choose your CPU first, then the motherboard. Intel and AMD use different sockets, and that’s the first big decision every DIY builder needs to make.



To make things easier, we’ve broken motherboards into Entry-Level, Mid-Range, and High-End categories, with recommended CPUs and models for each.











🔹 Entry-Level Motherboards

Best for:





Basic home PCs



Office and productivity PCs

Key Features:





Simple expansion: usually 2 RAM slots, 1 PCIe slot



No heatsinks on the I/O section (chips are exposed on the PCB)

Recommended CPUs:





Intel: i3 series, some i5 models



AMD: Ryzen 3, some Ryzen 5

Popular Models:





Intel: H series, some entry-level B series (e.g., H610)



AMD: A series (e.g., A520, A620)

👉 Perfect for web browsing, office tasks, and light use at the lowest cost.





🔹 Mid-Range Motherboards

Best for:





Casual gamers



Content creators with moderate workloads

Key Features:





Better expansion: usually 4 RAM slots, multiple PCIe slots



Improved thermal design, some with ARGB lighting

Recommended CPUs:





Intel: i5, i7



AMD: Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7

Popular Models:





Intel: B series (e.g., B660, B760)



AMD: B series (e.g., B550, B650)

👉 The sweet spot for most gamers and DIY builders—great balance of performance and value.





🔹 High-End Motherboards

Best for:





Hardcore gamers



Professional creators (video editing, 3D rendering)



Enthusiasts who want maximum performance

Key Features:





Full expansion options: multiple PCIe slots, USB Type-C, reinforced heatsinks



Overclocking support to unlock full CPU power

Recommended CPUs:





Intel: i7, i9, all K-series



AMD: Ryzen 7, Ryzen 9

Popular Models:





Intel: Z series (e.g., Z790)



AMD: X series (e.g., X670, X670E)

👉 Top-tier performance with room for future upgrades—built for those who want it all.





📝 Final Tips

When choosing your motherboard, keep three things in mind:





Your needs (office work, gaming, or professional use)



Your budget (entry, mid, or high-end)



CPU compatibility (always match Intel or AMD correctly)

Follow these steps and you’ll find the right motherboard for your build—and set the foundation for your dream PC. 





Choosing the Right Motherboard Without the Confusion

Motherboard Basics: The Easy Beginner’s Guide

Acegeek offers high-quality computer cases, cooling solutions, power supplies, and peripherals. Explore our website for top-notch products &amp; accessories.

Blog